Gunnbjorns Fjeld 3693m & Watkins Mountains

Gunnbjorns Fjeld is the highest mountain in the Arctic and is situated in the Watkins mountains of east Greenland.

Gunnbjorns Fjeld was first referred to by the old Norse sailing expeditions as Hvitserk and then first seen in modern times by Gino Watkins on 1st September during the 1930 British Arctic Air Route Expedition. The first ground sighting was made in 1934 by Martin Lindsay's British expedition before receiving it's first ascent on 16th August 1935 by Wager and Courtaulds' Anglo-Danish party. 

• Gunnbjorns Fjeld 3,693m, the highest mountain in the Arctic
• The Watkins Mountains contain all 10 highest mountains in the Arctic
• Highest unclimbed peaks in the Arctic (up to 3,300m)
• Up to 1500m vertical height gain from basecamps to summits
• The ultimate Greenland destination for ski-mountaineering on big peaks
• Superb exploratory ski-touring
• Ideal time to visit - May to July (mountaineering), May to June (ski-mountaineering)
• In June 1998 Tangent became the first and only commercially organised expedition to reach the summits of all five highest peaks in the Arctic in a single trip.

Until Summer 1988 there had been just two further ascents by Alistair Allen's 1971 Anglo-Danish party and Stan Woolley's 1987 expedition. There then followed a succession of four more ascents during July 1988 as a result of the first ever ski landings of the Twin Otter aircraft in this area. Since then there has been a fairly small but consistent number of between one and three expeditions climbing the mountain each year. At the turn of the Millennium the total number of ascents is believed to be just twenty eight. 

The Watkins Mountains also contain all ten highest mountains in the Arctic which can all be ascended by largely non-technical climbs via their easiest routes.

These and other unclimbed peaks in the area also offer a range of difficulties including technical snow and ice routes.

The Watkins Mountains are unsuitable for mixed climbing due to the poor basalt rock.

All the following photos were taken during our March/April 2004 attempt on the first winter ascent of Gunnbjørnsfjeld, the highest mountain in the arctic at 3693m. Retreated at 3400m due to strong winds on summit ridge and extreme wind chill factor of -80 to -90°